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The absence of light in the glove box does not interfere in the day time, which is not to say the evening and even at night, especially if you need to find some small Circuits. The idea is not new, many machines placed, well, in my-no. Gave me an excuse to tinker, and I did ...
The basis illumination took odnovattnye white LEDs, 3 pieces. Connected in series with a current limiting resistor in a circuit. The voltage drop on one white LED to 3.5 V, so the total voltage drop across the diode will be about three. With the engine running and a fully charged battery system voltage 14 V vehicle, not 12. Sam measured. So as not to burn the diodes required to calculate the value of the resistor will be based out of 14 V. The resistance is 14 V-10.5 V = 3.5 V. The diode current-0,1 A (value is slightly underestimated relative to the stated in the technical documentation-150mA . in light much to lose, and diodes will last longer). According to Ohm's law, we find the desired resistance value: R = U/I. R = 3,5/0,1 = 35 ohms. I found two 68 ohm resistors, connecting them in parallel, the resistance was 34 ohms. Close to what you need. Go!
For each of the elements of the covering made small rectangular printed circuit board, the edges of the site for soldering pins and the center of the wound with copper wire for heat.
Circuit connection of diodes and resistors designed left to figure out how to push her into the car, so it is advisable to close the glove compartment. Inspection of the space above the "small box for trash" revealed a lot of space and all the different bits of iron, for which you can hold on to.
So we had to each diode soldered copper "whiskers" to 10 centimeters in length. Mustache just soldered to the wire that is used to heat.
Little fuss to secure the illuminated elements, small fitting location, the benefit of the "whiskers" to move the diodes is not difficult, connect the positive lead from the radio to the constant, negative on the body and you're done. Now there are lights in the glove compartment ... constant and fading. Better than none, but is not quite what we wanted.
Light Switch.
In my case, if specially made for this purpose and there is a very convenient place (the button is already installed):
The most common Zhiguli probably door knob. Breaks the circuit when pressed. To the body buttons soldered wire with a constant voltage of +12 V, to the moving contact the positive lead of the LED assembly. Drill a hole in the plastic about an inch and tie a button on a small screw.
Did not even have anything to adjust or tighten up, the button in this place is perfect fit from a technical point of view.
For comparison photos with the backlight OFF and when the:
Pictures do not convey the difference as a video:
